Places · Food · Ways through

All guides

Not a list of everything. Just the roads, tables and rooms we would send a friend to.

6 stories

Valle d’Itria · 12 min

White walls, hot stone, and where to eat when the churches close at noon.

Salento · 8 min

Baroque stone turns gold at seven. Here is where to be when it does.

Salento · 9 min

Flat rock, clear water, no sand. The ledges locals keep quiet about.

Valle d’Itria · Stay

Working farms first, pools second, and a long table every evening.

Gargano · 11 min

Foresta Umbra, then a long descent to Vieste through the pines.

Bari · Eat

Watch, buy, and know when to stop asking questions and simply eat.